FSH 244 De Anza college The 19th and 20th Centuries Casualization of Dress Questions Focus on one form of leisure dress from either the 19th or 20th centur

FSH 244 De Anza college The 19th and 20th Centuries Casualization of Dress Questions Focus on one form of leisure dress from either the 19th or 20th century (choose from these categories: undress, sportswear, athletic dress, or high-fashion leisure dress) by finding historical examples and recent fashion examples.

Your entry should meet the following requirements:

Include two images of key fashion moments from historical sources.
Include two images of current fashion obtained from current sources. Current fashions should be from the late-20th and 21st centuries.
Include a short caption under each image to identify and describe each example, using course vocabulary and concepts from this module.
Cite all research sources.
Submit all entries in JPEG format. 7/20/2020
2060_FSH_244_OL2 Discussion
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The 19th and 20th Centuries/Casualization of Dress
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9.1 19th & 20th Century Casualiztion of Dress: Fashion Resource Book
JUPE-CULOTTE:
Now I see where the connection between the Hammer Time Pants and Harem pants originated from. That being said, I’m going to shift in the
direction of the Haute Couture of leisure or active-wear from the 19th and 20th century.
▪ Antique-Gown. Origin: America. 1913.
https://www.antique-gown.com/en/1900-1919/harem-pants-or-jupe-culottes,-america,-ca-1913
“This type of dress was inspired by Paul Poiret and the fashion of the Ballet Russes. This dress here probably was too. For a short time, these
dresses were the absolute fashion rage – in Europe and America. The special thing about them are the (Turkish) trousers worked into the skirt
(hence the name Jupe-Culottes).”
▪ ELLE Magazine: How to wear the Culottes in winter?. By Marie Guérin. Posted November 18, 2019. Image of Designer, Victoria Beckham
in a black “cropped trouser” Culotte.

Comment porter la jupe-culotte en hiver ?

SHIRTWAIST:
▪ The Met 150. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Origin: America, 1896-98
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/109505
Help
▪ Vogue.com. Designer: Unknown. Photograph by Craig McDean Vogue, April 2013
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American made Jupe-Culotte.
1913
Victoria Beckham (Posh
Spice) Wearing modern da…
American Made Shirtwaist,
1896-98.
Vogue, April 2013. Designer
unknown.
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The 19th and 20th Centuries/Casualization of Dress
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“Fashion & Features: American Experience.” Vogue May 01 2010: 188,188, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199. ProQuest.
Web. 20 July 2020 .
Gym Suit. 1890s. Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 20 Jul. 2020. .
Fass, M. (n.d.). The Secret to Feeling Confident at the Gym This Year? A Matching Workout Set. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from
https://www.vogue.com/article/workout-leggings-athleisure-activewear-new-years-resolution
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This 2010 Vogue article touches on the influence that historical
archetypes have on the fashion industry today. This Ralph Laur…
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The sweater was an important aspect of the fashion wardrobe.
This sweater from 1885 was most likely worn to go cycling.…
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Gym Suits allowed women to wear pants while they took part in
exercise. They were still made with heavy wool and still appear…
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In 2019, Fashion model Bella Hadid wore a workout set out on
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FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
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1. Introduction
2. Overview 1
3. Overview 2
4. Sphere of Influence
5. 19th-Century Undress
6. Women’s Sportswear
7. Men’s Sportswear
8. Forms of Dress: 1900–1950
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FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 9: THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES/CASUALIZATION OF DRESS
Introduction
In previous modules, we were introduced to the concept of conspicuous leisure, a term
coined by sociologist Thorsten Veblen to describe inactivity (leisure) as a luxury good, the
possession of which signals status and requires a style of dress to display that status. We
explored how this developed from 17th-century undress into 18th-century fashionable
leisure dress.
In this module, we will explore the new forms of leisure dress that developed in the 19th
century. Then we will trace the development and expansion of categories of leisure dress
in the first 50 years of the 20th century and across the international fashion centers of
French, American, and Italian design.
Student Outcomes
9. Couture Leisure Dress
10. American Sportswear Chic
11. Italian Casual Chic
12. Conclusion
Analyze key moments in the development of 19th- and 20th-century leisure dress,
with the goal of identifying the origin of recent looks.
Recognize revivals and reinterpretations of 19th- and 20th-century leisure dress in
current fashion and design.
Research historic sources to find images of 19th- and 20th-century leisure dress,
and identify connections between historic fashion and present fashion.
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Attention
The Resources site provides important information you will need to navigate this course:
Online Orientation
Research, Writing, and Plagiarism
Grading Policy and Evaluation
The Fashion Resource Book
Key Concepts and Vocabulary
Sphere of Influence
This link will be available as a reference throughout the semester.
Once you have read the material in each of these sections, let’s continue with the Sphere
of Influence and the next key moment in fashion history!
Graded Topics
After reading this module you will complete the following:
9.1 [Assignments] Fashion Resource Book
Discussion
Class participation in the Discussion is required and makes up a significant part of your
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learning experience. Click on the Discussion link in the top toolbar to enter the
Discussion.
Progress Questions, Quizzes, and Exams
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Overview, Part 1
2. Overview 1
Key Fashion Moment
3. Overview 2
This module will explore the development of leisure dress—the dress for modern living.
Leisure dress can include sportswear for sporting activities, casual dress for engaging in
leisure activities (activities unrelated to work), and fashionable dress (dress forms
appropriated into fashion from sportswear and casual dress).
5. 19th-Century Undress
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MODULE 9: THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES/CASUALIZATION OF DRESS
1. Introduction
4. Sphere of Influence
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6. Women’s Sportswear
7. Men’s Sportswear
8. Forms of Dress: 1900–1950
9. Couture Leisure Dress
10. American Sportswear Chic
11. Italian Casual Chic
Through most of the 19th century, long dresses were the norm for female athletes on
courts and fields. What really shook things up was the bicycle, which became a national
craze in—naturally—the 1890s. It was difficult (and dangerous) for women to ride in a
long skirt that could get caught in the spokes, which led to a demand for more sensical
outfits for modern living.
—Derek Thompson, “Everything You Wear is Athleisure,” The Atlantic, October 28,
2018
12. Conclusion
The introduction of the bicycle was one of many factors that led to a “long decline in
formality,” as outfits for modern living gained in popularity with men and women in the
20th century. This was right in line with larger societal changes. Although women were
still homemakers, their mode of dress was becoming more practical and casual,
compared with the 19th-century. Hemlines were shorter, and the shirtwaist blouse and
skirt were widely accepted as more casual dress. During the early-20th century, women
were becoming more active in society, and the suffragette movement was gaining force.
In 1919, women won the right to vote.
Men’s clothing also underwent a long decline in formality. Fast-forwarding to the 1970s,
we can see the evolution of the 19th-century leisure suit into its late-20th-century
counterpart consisting of colorful separates with an optional jacket. Worn with a
patterned, body-conforming shirt, left open to expose the chest, the 20th-century “leisure
suit” became a hallmark of casualization.
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Men’s sportswear, 1967–1978
Two men in attire evoking the 19th and early-20th centuries,
ca. 1975
This category of dress, called casual clothing, was worn by men during leisure time and
for sports. It included sport jackets worn with contrasting trouser fabric, bush jackets, plus
fours, walking shorts worn with knee-length socks, polo shirts, western shirts, and
Hawaiian shirts. In the sportswear category, the Lacoste knit tennis shirt (named for the
tennis player René Lacoste), golf clothes, one-piece swimsuits, and ski clothes were all
popular choices for men’s leisure wear.
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Throughout the first 50 years of the 20th century, the growing participation in active and
spectator sports influenced fashion developments. Sports stars became style setters, and
the need for practical casual dress increased demand for the relatively new category of
clothing called sportswear. As women began to drive, shorter skirts were necessary to
allow for more mobility in driving and in getting in and out of cars. The automobile also
increased opportunities for recreational activities, further expanding the need for new
leisure clothing categories.
It must also be noted that all of these 20th-century forms of sportswear and casual dress
for men were eventually adopted into the dress for women. One of the most significant
drivers in the development of sportswear and casual dress for women came during the
years between 1939 and 1946, when all communication (including French fashion
direction) between Europe and North America was cut off due to WWII. The war, and the
subsequent movement of Americans returning home from the war to the suburbs, created
an opportunity for American designers to establish a new design identity based on the
needs of the American consumer.
Comfort, practicality, and a more casual suburban lifestyle required clothes that were
“ready to wear” (off the rack, as opposed to one of a kind) and made from easy-care
fabrics. These clothes were designed for an active and fashionable consumer who
enjoyed an increasing amount of leisure time and engaged in recreational and sporting
activities in a prosperous postwar U.S. economy.
American midcentury sportswear
American midcentury sportswear
The key fashion moment for casual fashionable dress became a global phenomenon, as
the Italian designers and the French couturiers began designing fashionable dress based
on the popularity of sportswear and casual dress.
Sources for Study
Costume historians study 19th-century dress from women’s magazines containing
fashion information of the day, colored fashion plates, photographic portraiture, artistpainted portraits, and actual garments that remain in museums from this era.
Sources for the study of dress in the first 50 years of the 20th century include wardrobe
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Sources for the study of dress in the first 50 years of the 20th century include wardrobe
for film, television, and theater, photographic portraiture, fashion photography, fashion
magazines, fashion advertising and marketing material, actual garments from extensive
museum collections and the holdings of individual collectors, photography by individual
consumers, and color photos in magazines.
Progress Question
You must answer the following question before proceeding.
FEEDBACK
World War II created an opportunity for American designers to establish a new
design identity based on the needs of the American consumer.
True
False
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Overview, Part 2
2. Overview 1
Motives for Dress
3. Overview 2
As we continue our exploration of status marking through dress in the 19th and 20th
centuries, we will focus on the use of sportswear and casual dress to display prestige and
social status, and in some cases, to challenge the established norms of dress. Dressing
in a manner that clearly indicates that the individual does not need to engage in any form
of productive activity is a mark of social and economic status and power.
5. 19th-Century Undress
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MODULE 9: THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES/CASUALIZATION OF DRESS
1. Introduction
4. Sphere of Influence
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6. Women’s Sportswear
Modesty Standards and Conspicuous Leisure
7. Men’s Sportswear
8. Forms of Dress: 1900–1950
9. Couture Leisure Dress
10. American Sportswear Chic
According to sociologist Thorsten Veblen, who coined the term “conspicuous leisure,” the
“abstention from labor is the conventional evidence of wealth and is therefore the
conventional mark of social standing” (Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure
Class). We will return to Veblen’s concept of “progressive dress” later in this course when
we examine current fashion trends. For now, review this brief introduction to his ideas and
work on the leisure class:
11. Italian Casual Chic
12. Conclusion
A North American economist and sociologist, Thorstein Veblen (1857–1929) was an
unrelenting critic of late 19th-century industrial society and in particular of the hierarchy of
values associated with its dominant group, which Veblen named the leisure class.
Dress . . . is ideally placed as a vehicl…
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